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Shuya Ramen ramen photo by NYNJ Ramen Enthusiast

Shuya Ramen ramen photo by NYNJ Ramen Enthusiast

One of my favorite spots in Tokyo is Tai Shio Soba Touka (鯛塩そば灯花), where the soup is made from Red Sea Bream (often called Red Snapper on sushi menus in the US). Spotted a limited special on Shuya’s menu, the Red Snapper Lemon Shio, so had to give it a try. Whoa! I was blown away. The soup is simply made from water, salt and the fish head and bones leftover after Chef Miyawaki cuts out the filets, and yet the flavor he draws out is simply amazing. Light and nuanced, with acidity from the added lemons slices, the soup is clean, balanced liquid red snapper without any bitterness or aftertaste. The noodles, as always at Shuya, are scrumptious, and pair perfectly with the delicate broth. Unlike Tai Shio Soba Touka, which tops their bowl with pork chashu and then serves some red bream sashimi on the side, Shuya stays true to the theme and serves one of the most perfectly grilled pieces of fish you will ever eat. It is tender and flaky with hints of smokiness, and was well complemented by the peppery stalks of mizuna greens. Outstanding bowl, too bad it is a limited menu item. I hope it stays around a while so I can enjoy it again.